I don’t even have my ears pierced, but these beauties by Georg Jensen are amazing. The small diamonds embedded into filligree of the design are especially delightful.
Socks have made a resurgence as a fashion item in the last couple of years. I am hoping to get my hands on the polka-dotted ones that Rachel Comey has put out for this fall season, and, judging from A Detacher and Louise Goldin, socks are still on the consciousness of designers. It’s curious that socks are more prominently featured in the work of women’s designers. In addition to the women featured in this post, Marni comes immediately to mind. I guess, socks are a classic Man Repeller item.
Louise Goldin is a knitwear specialist from London showing in New York for the first time this season. She’s still developing her signature, but I enjoy her collections. I particularly like her translation on shoulder volume that we’ve been seeing at Balenciaga and Celine the last few season. It’s a tough silhouette made approachable.
Proenza Schouler has developed a unique aesthetic, and a discernable consistency from season to season speaks to their growing maturity as designers. There are arguably prettier pieces in this collection and undoubtedly more wearable pieces, but I am fascinated by the dress pictured. The digital print is quite grotesque, but the grommets on the skirt and the buttons on the bodice reflect a high level of craft. The mix of the two makes a compelling garment, and it’s clothes like this that tell me there is a deep well of creativity to keep this brand alive for years to come.
I don’t like birds, but the collection from Thakoon overcame my prejudice. I think it was the designer’s masterful variations that won me over. The collection started out with a group of stunning dresses, beautifully cut, each featuring a different print incorporating birds. This is gorgeous stuff, but it was the later pieces which made the collection memorable. The opening dresses are beautiful, but will probably only be seen on the concrete carpet of fashion bloggers and it-girls who populate the streets waiting to be photographed during fashion week. The latter dresses were of a decidedly more casual bent, cotton versus satin, daytime versus evening. The birds seemed to have disappeared, but they were slyly referenced in the cage-like skirt shapes. All in all, an entirely appealing group of clothes.
The evening looks in the Marc Jacobs spring collection are stunning, truly marvelous. The ornate beading is at the couture-level. The practical voice in my head is thinking that the dresses must weigh a ton, but for those few women in the world who have occasion to wear such a garment, who cares?
The emphasis on prints and mixing prints hasn’t abated. While Suno used to be leading the pack on this, I wasn’t enchanted with their outings over the last couple of seasons. Ostwald Helgason, a newcomer, however, has been absolutely charming. I’m also happy to see Chris Benz back in great form. Even better yet, he’s dropped his price point, so his version of crazy-granny will be more retail friendly.
Jen Kao has always been a fun talent to watch, and this season she put together a great, mature collection – her best to date.
Mesh as stand-in for a sporty aesthetic has been present for a year or so, probably most notably at Alexander Wang and Rag & Bone, but I adore how Jen Kao worked it subtly into both casual and dressy looks. She also showed a complete collection with ideas for work and play without sacrificing a cohesive vision of her offerings for the season. In reality, women need a lot of options and there were plenty on hand in this collection.
Philip Lim is generally a favorite of mine, but I wasn’t following his train of thought on this collection. I read that the inspiration was grunge, but even with that information in mind, I didn’t really see it. Rather, it was a mash-up of fabrics, prints and proportions that left me puzzled. It’s particularly disappointing because Phillip Lim’s strength is translating high-concepts into covetable sportswear.